There is champagne, and then there is the idea of champagne.
Champagne is what people drink on New Year’s Eve. The idea of it is what gets smashed onto the hulls of yachts and sprayed on joyful men after championship games. “Champagne continually has to defend itself,” the wine columnist Hugh Johnson once wrote, “against the danger of becoming a notion rather than a wine.”
It is a legendary beverage, and there’s enough overlap between mythology and history to warrant some clarifications. For example, the widely…
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